Patricia Field, designer of ‘Sex and the City’ on Carrie’s iconic looks, a must-have fashion item
NEW YORK (AP) — Costume designer Patricia Field has never liked fashion rules.
The woman who famously paired a tutu with pointy heels on Sarah Jessica Parker in “Sex and the City,” and made a plaid bucket hat cool on Lily Collins in “Emily in Paris,” has a way of making high fashion accessible to the masses. . She explains how she does it in the new documentary ‘Happy Clothes: A Film About Patricia Field’, which recently premiered at the Tribeca Film Festival.
The film is directed by Michael Selditch, who also directed the 2019 CNN docu-series “American Style”. During an interview with Field for that series, he found a bold character with a unique, unconventional style of mixing color and patterns and designer looks with street wear. Although Field initially balked at the idea of a documentary crew following her, she eventually gave in and says she’s pleased with the outcome.
The Emmy-winning Field, 81, was behind the inventive outfits on “Ugly Betty” and is also known for styling movies, including “The Devil Wears Prada,” which earned her an Oscar nomination. The Associated Press recently sat down with Field and Selditch to talk about her process, that tutu, and what item everyone should have in their closet.
Answers have been shortened for brevity and clarity.
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AP: How did you get Pat to agree to this documentary?
SELDITCH: I said to her, ‘You know, anyone can make a documentary about you. We can always find people to sit down and talk about collaborating with you and saying great things and adding archive footage. But that’s not exactly the documentary I want to make. I want to follow your process. I want to see you shopping. I want to see you work with actors. I really want to make it happen and watch you work and get inside your head and be a fly on the wall. And I said, “If we don’t do it now, when are you going to do it?”
AP: What does a typical suit fitting look like to you?
FIELD: There’s a person and then there’s a character. But behind that character is the person, and it’s really important that they feel good because that’s my responsibility in my opinion. It’s not about dictating to actors what’s right and what’s not right. It’s about giving them choices and, of course, getting to know them. Once you get to know them, it becomes a little more automatic. Like Sarah Jessica Parker, I know her. I’ve worked with her before. I know her taste. It’s about the relationship and making sure the actor is comfortable, positive and ready to go in front of that camera.
AP: Your costumes on “Sex and The City” have made designer brands feel more attainable by mixing high fashion accessories with off-the-shelf ready-to-wear. Was that intentional?
FIELD: Let’s talk about mixing high and low. I think you can’t just wear high or low. People say, “orange and red don’t go together.” Well, they go together in a fruit bowl! (smiles) It’s nature. And what’s wrong with it? So I follow this little philosophy of mine and I tend not to get distracted by mores or rules or anything. It’s just my expression and if it makes me feel good and the actor does, then it’s fine.
AP: The white tutu and gold “Carrie” necklace have become iconic items. You know when you put something like that on an actor that it’s going to hit?
FIELD: I don’t always have the same formula for knowing in advance what it’s going to be. But I have my taste. It’s not haphazard for me, and I think it’s my formula and I think it works for me. It’s very important. Dressing someone, male or female, it’s a two way street. They are in the clothes, they must be happy. I offer the clothes, I must be satisfied. It is always best to build a positive relationship and if the actor trusts you then you are home free.
SELDITCH: One of the things I really love and admire about Pat is that she goes with her gut in her work and in her life. And I think what you see there, like the tutu, it’s just in her gut, it felt good to her. Other people might say, “Why?” But it felt good to her. And that turned out to be the case. And her feeling is not ordinary or obvious. It’s fun and crazy and exciting. And that’s one of the things that people respond to in Pat’s work.
FIELD: I think the tutu industry will thank me. (laughs) I can’t stop seeing tutus! Years go by and there are always tutus on the rack. I saw this (skirt) in the showroom, and I pulled it out of a basket on the floor and I immediately thought of Sarah Jessica because she’s ballet trained and she’s also fashion. She will understand this. She’s not going to treat this with a pair of ballet slippers. She’s going to put on some pointy heels and have this little thing. And I said, “Darren (showrunner Darren Star) if it’s a hit — and I think it will be — that tutu is going to be classic through time.”
AP: You worked with Molly Rogers on “SATC” and now she’s the client for “And Just Like That…” Do you think she’s been consistent with the style of the new show?
FIELD: I love her. She has experience. I worked with Molly for many years. I met her at my store on 8th Street and I hired her and we’ve been together ever since and done several projects. It’s a very long and loving relationship. There is definitely a consistency. But at the same time, it wouldn’t be so good if she just tried to copy me. She is creative. She has her own take on it. I think they do a great job. I would probably be very disappointed if they weren’t.
AP: What is an accessory you think everyone should have?
FIELD: I like a belt because the belt defines the waist and you know, all of this like loose shapeless clothing – I don’t find it very exciting. So I’m definitely a belt girl.
