‘Miracle of nature’: Bergamot’s fragile revival in southern Italy
The breathtaking view from the Reggio Calabria boardwalk, where the Mediterranean and Ionian seas converge, has been famously described as “the most beautiful kilometre in Italy” by the beloved Italian poet Gabriele D’Annunzio. But beyond the stunning vistas lies a hidden gem – the citrus fruit bergamot, thriving in the unique microclimate created by the tapering Apennine mountain range.
For centuries, bergamot has been grown almost exclusively along a 90-kilometre strip of the Ionian coast in Calabria, the southern tip of Italy. The essential oil extracted from this fragrant fruit has been prized for its use in perfumes, luxury cosmetics, and even Earl Grey tea. The bergamot consortium, led by Ezio Pizzi, obtained the prestigious Protected Designation of Origin (DOP) status from the European Union in 2001, recognizing the exceptional quality of the essential oil produced in this region.
Despite its historical significance, bergamot cultivation faced a crisis in the late 1960s with the invention of synthetic oil, causing the value of natural bergamot to plummet. Many landowners abandoned their orchards, leading to a nearly 25-year hiatus in production. However, the resurgence of interest in organic products in the early ’90s reignited the passion for bergamot cultivation, especially among French perfumeries. Pizzi and a group of producers revived essential oil production, doubling prices and eventually fetching as much as a euro per litre.
In addition to its essential oil, bergamot’s juice has been a long-overlooked treasure. Local historian Vittorio Caminiti uncovered the health benefits of bergamot juice, which has been shown to lower blood pressure, cholesterol, and potentially manage diabetes. This discovery has attracted new producers like Fabio Trunfio, who operate the Patea Bergamot Agricultural Company. Trunfio and other producers are pushing for a Protected Geographical Indication (IGP) certification to promote the juice’s unique qualities and health benefits.
As the bergamot industry in Calabria evolves, challenges such as climate change loom large. Extreme temperatures and changing rainfall patterns are affecting citrus growers across southern Italy, including bergamot producers. Pizzi and other growers are exploring solutions like desalination plants and greywater irrigation to mitigate the impact of prolonged droughts.
Despite these challenges, the passion and dedication of Calabria’s bergamot producers continue to shine through. As they navigate the complexities of the market and environmental changes, they remain committed to preserving the legacy of this precious fruit and ensuring its prosperity for generations to come.
