Paris Fashion Week: Anderson’s couture craftsmanship captivates

PARIS –

A sparkling spray of water from towering fountains cooled overheated VIP guests at Spanish luxury fashion house Loewe’s show on Saturday during Paris Fashion Week.

Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson masterfully translated the essence of sculptor Lynda Benglis’ work into a spring collection that explored themes of sparkle and elongated forms. It was a fitting showcase of his continued innovation for Loewe’s and underlined Anderson’s stature among the Parisian design elite.

Here are some highlights from the day’s Spring-Summer 2024 menswear collections, including an interview with a model teacher whose school was the scene of a shocking explosion earlier this week:

ANDERSON RENEWS MEN’S CLOTHING WITH ARTISTIC BRILLIANCE

Against the backdrop of the monumental, water-spouting sculptures, Loewe’s latest Paris Fashion Week show was nothing short of a spectacle – and with Anderson at the helm, traditional menswear was reinvented and reimagined.

High-waisted trousers carried a touch of vintage nostalgia, their surreal heights drawing attention and distorting the perception of the human form. Sequins and crystals reflected the shimmering sparkle of the surrounding fountains, adding a disco-era festive energy to the collection.

Anderson’s touch was evident in the deceptively ordinary blazers, coats and knits – his cuts transformed the seemingly simple items into gestural works of art. A suede tunic with a conjoined handbag made from the same leather tickled the fancy of the audience, including actor Brian Cox, and provoked a flurry of camera clicks.

The collection featured an understated palette of soft pastels, blue, black and khaki, dramatically offset by accessories such as crystal-embellished sunglasses and a crystal hummingbird on a shredded brocade top. A range of footwear and oversized bags added another dimension to Anderson’s exploration of proportion.

The show proved that Anderson’s imaginative leadership at Loewe continues to showcase his prowess as an innovator, with a whimsical fusion of art and daring.

ART AND FASHION: THE SCULPTURES OF LYNDA BENGLIS

The catwalk at Loewe’s was also a stage for Lynda Benglis’ artwork. Three modernist fountains lined the catwalk, providing an artistic pulse that reverberated throughout the show. The sculptures, made of materials ranging from bronze to glitter, showcased Benglis’ skill at redefining conventional sculpture boundaries.

From the dramatic shape of “Crescendo,” a sculpture resembling a crashing wave, to the stacked flower-like shapes of “Bounty, Amber Waves, Fruited Plane,” and the algae rock essence of “Knight Mer,” they evoked a visceral feeling. reaction and a flurry of snaps.

The art-infused runway once again showcased Anderson’s penchant for blurring the boundaries of fashion.

Art teacher begs for help after explosion at Paris Fashion School

The global fashion community was shocked by the suspected gas explosion earlier this week in Paris’s 5th arrondissement, which partially destroyed a building and collapsed the facade of a private academy for design and art, the Paris American Academy.

Four people remain hospitalized in critical condition after Wednesday’s explosion, and at least 54 others suffered minor injuries or psychological shock. One person, a teacher, remains missing.

On site, Anna Barr, a 42-year-old merchandising teacher at the academy, fought back tears on Saturday.

“It’s especially disturbing because it’s such a small school, a family. I’ve known the principal for 25 years. I even went to college there,” she told The Associated Press. “Students flew from all over the world, including from the US and Korea, to attend these couture courses.”

Barr said the academy now “needed studio space immediately” and appealed to the French fashion and couture federation for help, hoping the fashion community can unite to overcome this devastating setback.

Experts equipped with search dogs had to suspend their searches through the rubble in Rue Saint-Jacques until the location can be considered safe, authorities said.

HERMES: IF IT Ain’t Broke, DON’T FIX IT

This spring-summer, under the expert hand of veteran designer Veronique Nichanian, the Hermes menswear show unfolded with an air of cool casualness and subtle, sophisticated luxury.

The collection offered an inviting range of pastel shades. With a soft palette of steam tones, light gray, sage and other graceful loose silhouettes, it reflected an airy and comfortable atmosphere. Oversized bags and strappy sandals added to the eccentric feel.

There was a lot of soft geometry, manifested in stripes that danced across T-shirts and jackets, making a bold link to Hermes’ emblematic openwork motifs.

Amidst the themes that dominate the gender dimension in many high-fashion shows in Paris, Nichanian amplified the classic realm of menswear and instead upheld the timeless elegance that Hermes has been synonymous with since her tenure began in 1988.

Summer was expected in tunics and beach blazers, while the collection’s allure was undeniably sensual, with heavy silks for summer evenings and loose knits for cooler hours.

Nichanian—the longest-serving, non-founding designer of Parisian fashion since the death of Chanel’s Karl Lagerfeld—continues to present the Hermes man with an effortless elegant elegance while cementing the brand’s reputation for understated, marketable fashion.

Summer, led by Nichanian, promises to be serene, joyfully sensual and unequivocally Hermes.

OFFICINE GENERAL: PIERRE MAHEO’S MEN’S CLOTHING HAS A PIECE OF SIMPLE MAGIC

Officine Generale’s Spring-Summer 2024 menswear show was an investigation into controlled simplicity, as designer Pierre Maheo presented a collection that was refreshing yet retained his signature sophistication.

Starting with a monochromatic palette, the show evolved into a celebration of subtle historical elements. A knee buckle here and a neck scarf there revealed Maheo’s penchant for bygone elements reinterpreted in a modern context.

Loose white tapered trousers and relaxed pajama-style shirts, paired with tailored foulards, were both casual and elegant. Elastic waistbands, knee-high socks and garters painted a picture of comfortable chic.

Maheo balanced the line between undone and done, always adhering to simplicity. Ultraviolet and teal tones and airy tank tops and shorts were a surprising touch. The designer confessed that he used it in response to a “cold and rainy” Parisian winter, offering a touch of warmth and sunshine.

The show summed up a jovial vibe — Maheo proved that minimalism can make an impact and that less is more when done with flair and an eye for detail.