Paris Fashion Week: fashion, star power and a martial appearance melt together in the Givenchy collection

PARIS –

History, fashion and star power came together at Givenchy’s last menswear show at Les Invalides in Paris. Steeped in the martial aura of the former military hospital with its cast-iron cannons, the show was the first of its kind over the monument’s expansive balcony. Movie star and musician Jared Leto was among the celebrities who cheered on the spectacle.

Here are some highlights from Thursday’s Spring-Summer 2024 menswear collections, including an interview with designer Matthew M. Williams:

GIVENCHY BECOMES CONFIDENT

In recent seasons, the creative heat at Givenchy under Williams has seemed somewhat lukewarm. However, this latest collection, presented against the backdrop of the pale stone arches of Les Invalides, showed a new-found creative confidence on his part. The designer seems set to successfully lead LVMH’s century-old home into solid sartorial territory.

The show opened with a series of finely tailored couture suits in striking black and white contrasts. Loose yet opulent, these looks blended seamlessly into the historical backdrop, setting an indulgent tone and preparing the audience for what was to come.

In a welcome and inclusive twist for the house, models from diverse backgrounds graced the catwalk. This wasn’t just any show; it was a statement, a testament to Givenchy’s commitment to inclusivity and modernity.

As the show progressed, the couture dress gradually gave way to utilitarian and – sometimes – militaristic elements. These influences are likely drawn from the show’s location, the final resting place of Napoleon Bonaparte. With backpacks, zips, belts and toggles, Williams has cleverly brought a sense of practicality to haute couture. The disruptive silhouettes created by backpacks strapped to the backs of the models echoed the location’s military roots and gave the show an edgy vibe.

It was a celebration of diversity and, most importantly, it was a beacon of creative growth for Williams at Givenchy.

MATTHEW M. WILLIAMS TALK ABOUT INSPIRATION

Williams gets his inspiration from an unexpected source. In a candid interview with the AP, Williams revealed how his personal experiences — from being a father to living near Les Invalides — shape his fashion creations.

“My kids go to school in England,” he said, “so I look at uniforms all the time, how kids wear it in different ways and throw different archetypes over it.” These casual observations of children’s sartorial ingenuity deeply influenced Williams, inspiring a sense of playful fusion of contrasting garments in his latest collection.

In addition, Williams’ proximity to historic Les Invalides influences his design philosophy. “This place inspired the collection because I live with a view of this (building),” said. This everyday backdrop of martial architecture has unmistakably imprinted on his work, giving his recent menswear line a stark, disciplined elegance.

Williams’ revelations underline how deeply personal and seemingly ordinary experiences can shape the extraordinary world of haute couture. His latest collection at Givenchy is a testament to this intertwining, offering a unique blend of everyday charm and high-end sophistication. As Williams summed it up, “Ultimately, I’m making clothes that I want people to wear.”

RICK OWENS – FASHION ARMOR

The Palais De Tokyo in Paris saw an exciting mix of past and future at Rick Owens’ Spring-Summer 2024 men’s show. The catwalk came to life with models resembling modern-day gladiators adorned with Owens’ signature long pants and slanted, oversized shoulders. To deal with global threats, Owens argues that perhaps “jubilee” is the most appropriate moral response. His collection demonstrated this through a line of “stark, determined elegance,” providing fashionable armor against adversity.

Committed to ethical practices, Owens used materials such as wool, silk and cotton. Plus, shorts and jackets in oiled calfskin from a family-owned Tuscan tannery and pure wool tailoring from an Italian heritage factory reflected his commitment to environmental sustainability and animal welfare.

The collection introduced strictly structured pants that were slanted and flared, silk and leather T-shirts twisted and draped, and imposing yet lightweight jackets. The pieces breathed new life into the Parisian menswear scene, with a constant swing of silk shirts, tunics and robes paying homage to the ancient world.

The show was a celebration of life in adversity backed by a strong moral compass. As Owens aptly put it, “how one deals with adversity defines one’s character,” a statement exemplified by his resilient and vibrant collection. In a changing world, Rick Owens’ menswear 2024 serves as a reminder to keep joy and style alive.

ISSEY MIYAKE TAKES THE JOB

The Issey Miyake show at the brilliant Musee des Arts Decoratifs began a theatrical boom. A huge roll of pleated crepe paper unrolled down the runway, revealing not just a prop, but actual pleated garments that had once been cut apart. Embraced by bare-chested models, this innovative reveal sparked a deluge of CCTV footage from an astonished audience.

The collection, “Everyday, One of a Kind, Now and Hereafter”, while not revolutionary, proved to be a gentle evolution of Miyake’s iconic design philosophy. Loose silhouettes came to life in vibrant hues and micro-pleated fabrics, capturing the brand’s commitment to everyday wearable artistry. One of the standout pieces was a thick charcoal gray pleated coat that nods to traditional Asian dress, the regality of which was underlined by its robust structure and generous drape.

Miyake’s “Monthly Colors” offered a balanced palette of natural tones ranging from soft to vibrant, providing a fresh chromatic offering each month. Meanwhile, the “Rectangle” series once again demonstrated the designer’s penchant for transformative fashion, changing from flat geometric shapes to asymmetrical silhouettes as he wore it.

The new “Horizon Pleats” series introduced a change in pleat direction, the horizontal pleats adding a subtle bounce and lightness to the silhouette of the garments.

While the collection didn’t break new ground, it did showcase the brand’s quiet sophistication. Even within its familiar territory, Miyake’s collection found space to inspire with poetic moments and clear nods to the brand’s historic design influences.

FREE SKETCHES FOR THE CHIC

Brush in hand, Maxime Smirnov becomes a familiar face outside the Paris fashion shows. The 19-year-old artist’s “Save Your Outfit” initiative involves spontaneously sketching guests in their chic attire as part of a free artistic service.

His canvas is the fashion-conscious crowd flocking around events, their outfits becoming vibrant, but blurry impressions under Smirnov’s brush. The final watercolor paintings serve as personalized keepsakes, snapshots of the ethereal nature of memory. “It’s like it works like a memory,” Smirnov said, describing his artistic technique.

Smirnov was discovered outside Givenchy’s Les Invalides show and has only been in Paris for a week, but has already painted about 50 sartorial portraits. The artist completes each impression in approximately two minutes and returns it to the subject as a unique and timeless memento of their fashion moment.

THE DISCREET ELEGANCE OF DRIES VAN NOTEN

Belgian master Dries Van Noten showed impeccable craftsmanship in his latest collection of menswear. Elongated silhouettes with lean proportions and a subtle back shoulder put a fresh spin on his menswear.

The collection featured a dark palette, dominated by black with occasional dusty, golden hues for depth. Van Noten’s signature historical influences were evident, including a jacket that flared out like a 19th-century dandy.

Described as a study of masculinity, the collection combined strength and gentility with a focus on sophistication. Narrow tailoring, high waists and flared pants defined the look, while pronounced or softly flowing shoulders and long, skinny sleeves exuded elegance.

Elongated trench coats, shirts as dresses, sculptural raglan sleeves on bomber jackets and oversized parkas made a statement. Airy proportions and soft shapes created a feeling of lightness, complemented by sheer fabrics and open shoes with plunging necklines that hint at nudity.