Pharrell brings entertainment to Louis Vitton’s fashion show
PARIS –
Revealing a new chapter in its illustrious history, Louis Vuitton made an indelible impression at Paris Fashion Week men’s shows when they premiered musician and designer Pharrell Williams’ debut collection.
Appointed in February to fill the immense shoes left behind by Virgil Abloh’s death, Williams unveiled his design prowess to the fashion world with a show that exuded confidence.
The breathtaking location for this sartorial spectacle was the iconic Pont Neuf in Paris. The historic bridge, typically resplendent with worn stone, was transformed into a golden runway — a dramatic stage set against the backdrop of the glittering Seine and under the starlit Parisian sky.
Tuesday night’s event attracted a constellation of stars. The stellar audience included icons of music, sports and entertainment. Guests lining the gilded cobblestones included music queens Beyonce and Jay-Z, NBA superstar LeBron James, new brand ambassador Zendaya and global pop phenom Rihanna.
Williams’ first show proved to be an ambitious endeavor, intertwining the luxury and sophistication of haute couture with the pulsating energy and broad appeal of pop culture and entertainment. The show was more than a runway presentation; it was an immersive experience that captured the imagination of those lucky enough to witness it with their own eyes.
Here are some highlights from the Spring-Summer 2024 shows:
PHAREL SPEAKS
As sunlight filled the storied halls of Louis Vuitton’s headquarters, Williams stepped into his new role as the fashion house’s menswear designer.
His appointment symbolizes more than a career switch. It represents a bold move by the luxury brand to entrust the position to a musical artist and cultural influencer, not a classically trained designer. But Pharrell says he feels no pressure to prove himself — he was chosen.
“I didn’t feel any of that because if I was fighting for it and people kept saying to me, ‘No, don’t do it,’ I might have felt that way. But the difference is that I was chosen,” Pharrell said. AP in a joint interview. “So, like when you get elected, you just ride the wave.”
The feeling of being selected by the universe, or by Louis Vuitton, carries with it a sense of destiny. But stepping into the role of a designer is not just about fulfilling one’s personal destiny. Williams also feels he is carrying on the legacy of the late Abloh, who was the first black artistic director at Louis Vuitton and a personal friend. “My appointment is a tribute,” said Williams.
Black culture and the struggles Black Americans have faced is a strong motivator for Pharrell. He reflected on the culture’s unique flavor, influence, and widespread appeal. “I think it’s something in the sauce,” he said. “And people like it when they try.”
Williams emphasized the hard-earned global recognition of this cultural “sauce,” exemplified by the influence of figures such as LeBron James, Jay-Z, Beyonce, Prince, and artist Jean-Michel Basquiat.
“Many people have lost their lives and suffered through the experience of getting us into these positions,” he noted, underscoring the painful history that fuels his desire to honor his community through his work at Louis Vuitton.
Pharrell’s love of life, the moment and opportunity permeate his approach to design. “LV is for Louis Vuitton, but it’s also ‘lover,'” he mused. His interpretation of the Louis Vuitton initials indicates his intent to infuse love and appreciation into his work and bring out the legacy of black culture in a space where it has been historically underrepresented.
“It has not escaped my notice that I get this opportunity to tell these stories,” he said.
LOUIS VUITTON SHOW
The heart of Paris went on fire as Williams unveiled a debut that fuses streetwear aesthetics with the traditional line of the French house. The fashion show embodied high voltage energy, reverberated through the audience and culminated in a standing ovation for Williams.
The world-renowned musician, known for his genre-blurring creativity, masterfully orchestrated the event. The runway show reflected the high energy of a music video, perhaps a testament to the fast reach of the brand’s parent company, LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton.
With a gender-fluid appeal, Williams presented an extensive collection from checkerboard denim to a sophisticated cream evening jacket. The line, highlighted by photographic prints of the Pont Neuf and a uniquely designed jacket with a shaved monogram motif, also underlined his flair for distinct aesthetics.
Playing with the LV codes, Williams collaborating with American pixel artist ET for a digital motif and using the micro-embroideries of black American artist Henry Taylor added an extra dimension to his debut lineup. The collection was full of pixelated designs on a wide spectrum of pieces, in addition to the Damier pattern – which adorns the house’s bags – enhanced in shades of yellow and black.
The grand finale was a spectacular concert by Jay-Z. The electrifying performance sent the audience to their feet, their excitement reaching a crescendo as Pharrell took the stage to join his old collaborator. While Rihanna’s arrival, in sync with the show’s climax and exposing a huge naked baby bump, was nothing short of theatrical.
As the show came to a close, an emotional Williams stepped forward to bow, wipe away tears, and point to the sky in a heartfelt thank you. The applause that followed was a resounding confirmation of the musician’s successful transition into the realm of luxury fashion.
CHANEL RESORT
After the pulsating late-night Vuitton showcase, a more subdued morning scene unfolded at Chanel’s headquarters. Members of the fashion press gathered, copious helpings of coffee and croissants in hand, to watch a breakfast presentation of Chanel’s resort collection. Thus began the glamorous Paris Fashion Week marathon.
Themes from the Golden Age of Hollywood characterized designer Virginie Viard’s collection, with references to the 1920s and 1930s. They were infused with a distinct 80s influence in sequins and vibrant colours.
Viard presented a long, loose coat, a style staple one might associate with film producers of the Art Deco era. Continuing the Hollywood motif, a lace A-line mini dress borrowed its bleeding color palette from an LA sunset, a nod to Sunset Boulevard. In addition, a tiered, ruffled skirt sported the pink and white stripe pattern commonly associated with the Beverly Hills Hotel.
The encore of the Paris resort collection provided an opportunity to take a closer look at Viard’s Hollywood-inspired designs and detailing without the breathlessness of a glitzy show. Amid the rapid advancement of fashion, Chanel’s collection served as a reminder of the brand’s involvement with historical and pop culture references.
BOTTERS PROPERTIES
The design duo behind the Botter label, Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh, are known for their progressive and bold approach to fashion. The spring-summer collection they presented on Wednesday showcased a range of bold and inventive interpretations of everyday elements.
Ecological plastic wickerwork, typically found on chairs, was cleverly transformed into garments. The unconventional material was especially poignant in a bright textured cardigan red that resembled chainmail, demonstrating Botter’s creative – and idiosyncratic – reinterpretation of everyday objects.
The designs also featured distinctive checks that gave a somewhat historic feel, especially on fitted tops and tights-cum-leggings that sometimes pieced together the look of a medieval peasant.
In contrast to the quirky designs, a delicate lavender knit cardigan unfurled like a disintegrating flower, adding a touch of poetic elegance to a pair of baggy anthracite office trousers, a testament to Botter’s versatility.
While their designs are often bold and unusual, they manage to strike a balance between surreal and wearable, continuing to appeal to a forward-thinking audience.
BLUEMARBLE SHINE WITH COLOUR
Designer Anthony Alvarez didn’t shy away from color in his menswear collection for Bluemarble. His vibrant palette was a delightful blend of citrine and dandelion. The unstructured and utilitarian designs combined streetwear sensibilities with a touch of high-fashion audacity. Part practical, part design statement, toggles fluttered in an unexpectedly fashionable way in sync with the aesthetic rhythm of the collection.
The choice of shades on the models, and the satiny glare on coats, lent the show a sun-kissed look, fittingly reflective of the “blue marble” – planet earth – that inspired the brand’s name. Bleached blonde hair and curtains were a subtle reflection of the late ’80s, while the boxy silhouettes seemed like a contemporary nod to the iconic era.
Building on Bluemarble’s reputation for dazzling color and cultural fusion, Alvarez balanced the blend of his own diverse heritage in his designs. (He was raised by a French mother and a Filipino-Spanish father.) The collection not only celebrated his brand’s world-traveling vision, but elevated it with bold colors, strategic nostalgia, and streetwise utility.
LOUIS GABRIEL NOUCHI BRINGS VIVID TRANSFORMATION IN MEN’S WEAR
In his Wednesday night show, Louis Gabriel Nouchi masterfully blended conventional sartorial elements with sportswear.
The collection opened with a striking, voluminous black leather trench coat, which showed Asian layering influences. The initial monochromatic black and dark tones set a sombre, yet anticipatory stage.
Ubiquitous ties, crisp white shirts and black leather loafers were an important backbone at the time. This familiar terrain was excitingly disrupted by deconstructed vests and cycling shorts, demonstrating Nouchi’s knack for pushing boundaries.
The dark musing soon turned into a visual spectacle of striking hues — straw and light cobalt blue — that evoke a playful disruption. The highlight came with a breathtaking ensemble: a loose tie-pajama look rendered in bold, dazzling sapphire.
Building on previous seasons’ play with silhouettes, particularly the emphasized shoulder line, and explorations of different materials such as leather.
