Remembering ‘That Dutchman’: N.S. cheesemaking legend was a fixture at Halifax market
The void left by Willem van den Hoek’s absence at the Halifax Seaport Farmers’ Market was palpable on Sunday. For decades, he stood at his family’s stall, showcasing their artisanal cheeses from Economy, N.S. However, the shelves that once held Gouda, Dragon’s Breath blue cheese, and other products were now empty, save for two bouquets of flowers, a Facebook post announcing his passing, and a sympathy card bearing the message: “The ‘Cheeseman’ will live on in our hearts.”
Known as That Dutchman, van den Hoek passed away last week at the age of 76 after battling a long illness. His son, Cees van den Hoek, reflected on his father’s presence at the market, describing him as someone who relished engaging in discussions, playing devil’s advocate, and exploring all perspectives. “He wasn’t afraid to challenge the status quo or stir things up,” Cees shared. “The cheese and the farmers’ market provided him with a platform to do just that.”
In 1980, van den Hoek and his wife Maja founded That Dutchman’s Cheese Farm after immigrating to Canada from the Netherlands in 1970. Their authentic Dutch Gouda cheeses were a novelty in Nova Scotia at the time, where sharp cheddar reigned supreme. As the demand for artisanal cheeses grew, so did their business. They expanded operations, opened an animal farm and nature park for visitors, and distributed their products in grocery stores and markets across the province.
Despite his entrepreneurial success, Cees emphasized that his father’s true passion lay in dreaming and starting new projects, even if they weren’t always completed. “My father instilled in me the belief that anything is possible,” he said. “He always said, ‘If you build it, they will come,’ and that proved true.”
In van den Hoek’s absence, his daughter Margaretha and son-in-law have been managing the business, ensuring its continuity. The stall at the market is expected to reopen soon, carrying on his legacy. A memorial service for van den Hoek is scheduled for Friday at the Peg in Masstown, followed by a reception featuring cheese, a fitting tribute to the man who brought joy to many through his delicious creations.
