Wellness reset? France’s Emerald Coast is a balm for modern misery

“We are almost there!” I yell at Nadia. It is surprisingly difficult to climb the stone steps, the wind increases as we rise. But with every step we get a better view of the slate roofs and café terraces below. When we finally reach the top, we pause in silence at the edge of the ramparts, bathed in golden sunlight and enchanted by the turquoise sea. Nadia breathes in the invigorating air and a broad smile appears on her face. The therapeutic effects of the French Emerald Coast are starting to take effect.

In mid-April I had received an email that started with “So I got fired from my job last week…” and ended with “Would you like a little adventure?” The sender was my old roommate Nadia; we had spent a university semester abroad in Paris 20 years earlier. Since then she had risen to the top ranks in a company, but got a pink slot from what she considered her dream job.

Nadia didn’t just need an adventure. She needed a chance to recharge her batteries, rethink her perspective, and bolster her confidence. The Côte d’Émeraude, or Emerald Coast, seemed like the perfect place for a reset.

Found west of the famous abbey of Mont-Saint-Michel, the medicinal properties of the coast have attracted visitors for more than 150 years. Although the therapeutic virtues of the sea were already recognized in ancient Egypt, in the 18th and 19th centuries English and French doctors began to promote the benefits of sea water and a pleasant climate to treat ailments such as rheumatism, respiratory problems and even depression. This helped popularize seaside holidays, a trend that boomed in the 19th century, with grand hotels and elegant villas popping up along the coasts of both England and France.

With this came the establishment of thalassotherapy (Greek for “sea” and “heal”) centers. And the Emerald Coast, with turquoise waters reminiscent of the Caribbean and a unique microclimate milder than the rest of northern France, became one of the most popular destinations of the time for thalassotherapy. Today, the practice also addresses the ills of modern society, such as stress and burnout.

“I’m turning off my email alerts now,” declares Nadia, whose inbox was previously bombarded with 400 business messages a day, as we take our seats on our Paris-Brittany high-speed train. We will arrive in just over two hours Saint Malothe main city of the Emerald Coast, and the base for our wellness getaway, which begins with a stay at Les Thermes Marins de Saint-Malo.

First opened in 1883 as the Grand Hôtel de Paramé, the royal hotel overlooks la Grande Plage du Sillon, the longest beach in Saint-Malo. In 1963 it was converted into an innovative thalassotherapy center and today it is a place where wellness seekers can check into one of the 177 luxurious rooms and spend half a day or an entire vacation with seawater treatments.

“They’re doing things I didn’t know existed,” Nadia whispers in wonder as we meet during a break in the sea mist room at Les Thermes Marins. Neither of us had been to a thalasso before, so surprises await at every appointment – from a seaweed body wrap to a hydromassage.

After the treatments are complete, we retire to the relaxation area to allow the effects of the thalasso to sink in, watching the floating sailboats and kitesurfers gliding on the waves. In a suddenly uplifting mood, Nadia tells me about the online business she wants to start, excitedly laying out her inspirations over dinner at the hotel’s Cap Horn restaurant as the sun sets over the sparkling bay.

The next day we take a more informal form of nature therapy: breathing in the sea air, which is believed to be particularly oxygen-rich here. We walk along the windswept beach of Sillon and up to the ramparts of Saint-Malo, then take to the water at the Môle des Noires jetty, named after the black rocks that can be found below it.

“I was anxious, not knowing what the future held for me, but being here helps me live in the present and be thankful for what I have,” Nadia philosophizes as we look back at the fortress city, which looks unusually serene. Heavily bombed in World War II, Saint-Malo had to rise above the ashes and rebuild.

While the air feels restorative on land, it is even stronger at sea, so we set out in the afternoon with Marine Malouin. In 2019 Nicolas Ourselin, the son of a fisherman, decided to quit his job and start his own tour company. “I realized that I couldn’t do without the sea,” says Ourselin. “This is where I’m happiest.”

During the 90 minute tour we can enjoy his passionate stories about the history of the area, the fresh air and the breathtaking view of the walled city, the nearby islands and the surrounding coastline. Ourselin explains that Saint-Malo has some of the highest tides in the world, another reason why the air here is particularly powerful.

With no set itinerary except for Nadia’s well-being in mind, the next day we board the 10 minute ferry crossing the River Rance to reach Dinard. During the belle époque, the once small village was transformed by the celebrities and royalty of the era into a glamorous seaside resort with more than 800 villas. We decide to explore them by bike, enjoying a sense of freedom as we meander through the posh streets of Dinard, simply going with the flow.

Strengthened by the beautiful surroundings, we continue to Saint-Lunaire, a smaller neighboring seaside resort, and then to Saint-Briac-sur-Mer, a traditional fishing village, which inspired artists such as Auguste Renoir, Paul Signac and Émile Bernard. By the end of the day we are almost exhausted and fall into a deep and restful night’s sleep.

There was another therapeutic element of the sea that we had yet to taste: oysters. They are considered a superfood and are rich in vitamin B12 and omega-3 fatty acids nutritional psychiatry to speculate that they may be able to help improve mental health. It is this last advantage that inspires us to visit Cancale, the “oyster capitalfrom Brittany, a bus ride from Saint-Malo.

King Louis XIV was so fond of Cancale’s molluscs that he would have eaten them every day – for breakfast. We choose to sample a tray for lunch, along with two glasses of fresh white Muscadet wine from the stalls of Port de la Houle, where we find seats overlooking the oyster beds of Cancale. Nutrition theories aside, just the laughter and joy we share as we slurp down the delicacy feels like food for the soul.

Then we walk to the Pointe des Crolles, a viewpoint above the city where you can see all the way to Mont-Saint-Michel. Where will our next adventure be? That is, after I launch my new business,” says Nadia, smiling at me, taking in the sweeping view and imagining all the lofty possibilities before her.

Lily Heise received accommodation and activities from Les Thermes Marins de Saint-Malo and Marin Malouin, who have not reviewed or approved this article.

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