Valentino challenges masculine notions and opens menswear previews at Milan Fashion Week
MILAN (AP) — Cries from adoring fans filled the air as stars like actor Jacob Elordi and Italian singer Elodie arrived for the Valentino show, which opened Milan Fashion Week menswear previews on Friday.
Milan’s menswear calendar was missing some mainstays, but the return of Valentino’s menswear for this season kicked off the week with a lot of energy. British singer Labrinth provided a live soundtrack from the central stage, pumping music into the colonnade of Milan’s state university.
Students, taking a break from their regular class schedule, watched from under the colonnade as the fashion crowd in tents displayed notes on their heads for protection from the scorching sun – many regret dressing in black.
The show was something of a homecoming for the French-owned Italian brand: the fashion house’s founder, Valentino Garavani, staged his first menswear catwalk show in Italy’s fashion capital in 1985 and regularly showed menswear in Milan until his retirement in 2008.
Some highlights from Friday’s show featuring mostly menswear previews for next spring and summer:
VALENTINO ELEVATORS LOOKS WITH FLORAL DETAILS
Valentino creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli’s collection for next summer is rooted in tailoring with some feminine flair, seen in softening colors and flowing shapes. But it was the floral details that took the collection to the next level.
The suit is the basic look, starting with monochromes in white: jacket, shirt, tie and thigh-revealing Bermuda shorts. Black shoes, socks and accessories provided the urban edge.
The shorts were sometimes transformed into a skirt. And tailored bottoms – shorts, slacks or skirts – can be paired with a shirt, boxy top or a silk V-neck with contrasting ties that flutter in the welcome breeze.
Floral notes elevate the looks, as forever boutonnieres bring clothes to life with sequins, appliqué, embroidery and graphic prints – never the same. From white and then black, the color palette exploded into fuchsia and pink, red and royal blue, with shades of gray, always in clean, studied monochromes.
The fashion house announced a donation to the university for scholarships for the next academic year. It also said it is working with a company that recycles, reuses or resells runway material, and is planting trees in Milan’s public gardens, close to Valentino’s Milan offices.
